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Some numbers are indicative and may be adapted to your need, like the focal length to use or the number of images to take.
From a fisheye lens to a moderate telephoto lens, anything will basically work: the important thing is to have a good foreground, as the sky alone will not be enough to have a nice, interesting photo.
Exposure settings are based on my experience. I would not recommend to use apertures narrower than f/5.6 (higher f number) or ISO higher than 800, as you want to retain the most of the star colours and not clipping them to pure white.
Because most of the stars are like our Sun, use the Sunny white balance setting. This is important if you will shoot the trails in jpeg.
As you will be on a tripod, disable any image stabilisation and turn off the long exposure noise reduction, to avoid gaps in the star trails.
Number of Photos For Star Trails
It is best to take more exposures rather than a single one, to contain digital noise. Take at least 60 photos each 30 seconds long, to have trails of decent length (particularly if you are using a wide angle or fisheye lens).
Set your camera to jpeg for these photos, as you will save space on your memory card.
Set your camera to save your photos as RAW when you are working your foreground, as you will do the most of the editing on it. Expose it properly, so that the details are visible (except if you are doing silhouettes).
You may want to consider some light painting or light trails to make your final image more interesting.
With fast aperture (small f- numbers) you may have not enough dept of field to keep all in focus and you may need to focus for the foreground, and refocus for the stars.
In the Northern Hemisphere, if you want circular trails you should aim for Polaris, the North Star. Any other directions will give trails with a different amount of curvature, but no circle. In the Southern Hemisphere you should aim towards Octan to have circular trails.
Asite the tripod, you should have an intervalometer, to automate the process to keep shooting through the night.
If you have one, consider to use a power grip with a second battery, keep your camera shooting for hours. In winter, wrap the camera body in a cloth with an hand warmer near the battery compartment, to keep battery efficient.
In humid and/or cold weather, to avoid condensation (dew) on your lens, use the lens hood and consider a USB heat strip to wrap around the lens. You can power it with a simple powerbank.
Starstax is a great and easy software to use to stack all the images you took for the trails. It is freeware and cross platform.
Once you have the trails, you can blend that image with your foreground in Adobe Photoshop
To know more in detail how I shoot Star Trails you can read this how-to article I have published on the Expert Photographywebsite:
As a case study, I have written about editing Moon shots in this article on Expert Photographywebsite: