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Some numbers are indicative and may be adapted to your need, like the focal length to use or the number of images to take.
To isolate the Moon and have some visible details, a focal length of 300mm on full frame camera is the bare minimum: longer focal length will make the Moon larger and more impressive, but with focal lengths longer than 600mm, the use of a tripod is a must to ensure sharp images.
Shutter speed, ISO and aperture are based on the Looney 11 empirical rule, which works quite well as starting point, particularly on the full Moon.
You are encouraged to experiment with different settings, particularly with other Moon phases.
Number of Frames
You should take multiple photos, so to stack them later, to increase the amount of details and reduce image softness from atmospheric turbulences and sub-optimal seeing conditions.
An intervalometer will make this task very simple.
Use the Live View if possible, with the magnification focus aid.
On full Moon, because of the frontal light, the lunar surface is very flat and offer little help for focusing. Instead, magnify the border and try to get it as defined and sharp as possible. You may also see some craters that have some contrast around the edge.
With other phases, magnify the area around the lunar terminator (the area where light and shadows meet on the lunar surface) and look to have the sharpest craters possible.
To know more in detail how I shoot the Moon, you can read this how-to article I have published on the Expert Photography website:
As a case study, I have written about editing Moon shots in this article on Expert Photography website: